Soupers de la Cour, by Menon, is the last major pre-revolutionary cookbook, and though it doesn’t have the over the top, debauched, pyrotechnics of Le Cuisinier Gascon, its solid, well thought out recipes are more indicative of the state of haute cuisine (Menon wasn’t himself a snob though, he had already written La Cuisiniere bourgeoise [...]
Before the roux – now a flour butter`mixture, originally a pork fat and flour mixture – sauces were thickened by the addition of bread crumbs, bread, or, famously (and regrettably) macaroons. In 1651 La Varenne gave us the first recipe for a roux, and sauce has never been the same. Roux tips: Hervé This (in [...]
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