fowl
Blomæth Høns – Chicken Dressed As Chicken
Neither chicken, nor something disguised as chicken, it’s chicken disguised as something disguised as chicken; a sort of entremet for the third estate.
A Brief History of Sauce Espagnole [née Partridge Sauce Espagnole]
The earliest recipe I’ve found for sauce Espagnole is in François Massialot’s Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois which first appeared in 1691 – the edition is from 1705, but there wasn’t a revised edition until 1712. Massialot’s appears under the recipe “Perdrix sausse à L’Espagnole” or Partridge sauce Espagnole and calls for Burgundy wine, partridge [...]
Rolled, Grilled, Polish Steaks with Sauce Espagnole
Filets de Boeuf grillés à la Polonoise.
Vous Prenez un filet de Boeuf motifié, vous le parez, le coupez en deux & en levez plusieurs feuilles, que vous étendez, en les battant; vous avez une farce de foyes gras que vous mettez dessus, & les roulez feuille par feuille, & les mettez griller en les arrosant [...]
Quail Stuffed Grape Leaves
Game birds are more difficult to find for a reasonable price than you’d like – makes you think about buying a shotgun – but I turned up some lovely frozen quail at my local market (The Roslindale Fish Market for those in the Boston area) and did them up with a sort of composite recipe [...]
Crudifest, March 2010
Images from crudifest 2010 – in the excitement we seem to have missed taking any pictures of some lovely 1654 apple pyes, but so be it. I’ll give a blow by blow of the recipes and methods soon – the “wild yeast bread” was left overnight to attract wild yeasts to leaven it, but [...]
Poulet à L’Allemand – German Chicken from Le Cuisiner Gascon, 1747
Le Cuisinier Gascon, Amsterdam (probably a false imprint for Paris), 1740 is famous for its important early treatment of foie gras, and for the outlandish names of many of its recipes. My copy of Gascon is the 1747 Nouvelle edition with the added letter to an English Pastry chef. This recipe isn’t outlandish [...]
Christmas Goose
I’d never cooked a goose before, but figured it would be a lot like cooking a duck – it is, but with a couple of caveats:
Duck is fatty enough – and the fat is well distributed enough – that it’s pretty hard to dry it out. Goose probably produces more fat when you cook [...]
Marx Rumpolt and Christmas Goose (and lobsters)
I’ve been slogging through Marx Rumpolt’s lovely Ein new Kochbuch (1581) looking for a goose recipe (the problem is a combination of too many goose recipes and my nearly non-existent German). There are 29 recipes (though many are just the barest bones of hints on cooking a goose). It’s maybe the loveliest cookbook [...]
Thanksgiving: Wherein a chicken rides a turkey to dinner and a pumpkin pie is filled with cheese
I have a very understanding family:
To make various mixtures with which to stuff every sort of commonly eaten animal, quadraped and fowl. Get four pounds of pork fat that is not rancid and with knives beat it finely together with two pounds of liver of a goat kid…adding in beaten mint, sweet marjoran, burnet [...]
Apicius, Liquamen and the Follies of Forcemeat
Apicius, (online edition of De re coquinaria, in latin; contemporary edition, dual language, Apicius, a Critical Edition) is a collection of Roman recipes written down around the beginning of the 5th century A.D. but often representing recipes from hundreds of years earlier. It is the earliest known collection of recipes. Hoping for a balanced [...]
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