18th Century
A Brief History of Sauce Espagnole [née Partridge Sauce Espagnole]
The earliest recipe I’ve found for sauce Espagnole is in François Massialot’s Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois which first appeared in 1691 – the edition is from 1705, but there wasn’t a revised edition until 1712. Massialot’s appears under the recipe “Perdrix sausse à L’Espagnole” or Partridge sauce Espagnole and calls for Burgundy wine, partridge [...]
Rolled, Grilled, Polish Steaks with Sauce Espagnole
Filets de Boeuf grillés à la Polonoise.
Vous Prenez un filet de Boeuf motifié, vous le parez, le coupez en deux & en levez plusieurs feuilles, que vous étendez, en les battant; vous avez une farce de foyes gras que vous mettez dessus, & les roulez feuille par feuille, & les mettez griller en les arrosant [...]
Salsa Mahonesa and the Seven Years War
In 1756, the Duc de Richelieu (great-great nephew of the Cardinal), supported by 12 ships of the line under Roland-Michel Barrin de La Galissonière, the governor of New France, succeeded in wresting the recipe for what we now know as “mayonnaise” from 2,800 British troops dug in at the Port of Mahon, Minorca. It’s [...]
A [Very] Short History of Sauce Allemande
Marie Antonin Carême (author of the encyclopedic, L’Art de la Cuisine Française, 1834) categorized all sauces as belonging to one of the five “Mother Sauces“, Sauce Allemande is from velouté sauce, a blond sauce of veal (or chicken) stock thickened with a roux of butter and flour. Later on, Escoffier (A Complete Guide to [...]
Poulet à L’Allemand – German Chicken from Le Cuisiner Gascon, 1747
Le Cuisinier Gascon, Amsterdam (probably a false imprint for Paris), 1740 is famous for its important early treatment of foie gras, and for the outlandish names of many of its recipes. My copy of Gascon is the 1747 Nouvelle edition with the added letter to an English Pastry chef. This recipe isn’t outlandish [...]
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