From A Baghdad Cookery Book translated by Charles Perry from Kitab al-Ṭabīḫ, “The Book of Dishes” by Muḥammad bin al-Ḥasan bin Muḥammad bin al-Karīm al-Baghdadi, mid 13th century.

Take a pound of sugar and a third of a pound of almonds or pistachios [we used almonds] and pound everything finely. Knead it hard with rose-water.

Almond, sugar, rose-water

Then throw an ounce of sesame oil in a dist, and dissolve half a pound of sugar and make it into syrup. When the sesame oil boils, throw a third of the syrup on it and stir it continuously. Then throw an ounce of starch dissolved in water and stir it unceasingly until it thickens. Then throw it on a smooth tile until it grows cold.

On a cool tile

Roll it out and cut it into small square pieces the size of the palm.

Gravity did most of the rolling

Cut and separate

Then put some of that kneaded sugar and almonds on it

like a taquito

and roll it in the form of ausāt. Then sprinkle spiced sugar on it, and take it up.

Lovely whole, or let harden and cut into bite size pieces

These were a charming little desert, entertaining to make, not too much trouble, and you get to make them on your kitchen floor (plus I noticed that I need to re-grout).