Archive for January, 2010
A [Very] Short History of Sauce Allemande
Marie Antonin Carême (author of the encyclopedic, L’Art de la Cuisine Française, 1834) categorized all sauces as belonging to one of the five “Mother Sauces“, Sauce Allemande is from velouté sauce, a blond sauce of veal (or chicken) stock thickened with a roux of butter and flour. Later on, Escoffier (A Complete Guide to Modern [...]
Escoffier renamed it Sauce Blo…
Escoffier renamed it Sauce Blonde after World War I.
For comparison – a modern Sauc…
For comparison – a modern Sauce Allemand from Escoffier http://bit.ly/ac0FTE
Poulet à L’Allemand – German Chicken from Le Cuisiner Gascon, 1747
Le Cuisinier Gascon, Amsterdam (probably a false imprint for Paris), 1740 is famous for its important early treatment of foie gras, and for the outlandish names of many of its recipes. My copy of Gascon is the 1747 Nouvelle edition with the added letter to an English Pastry chef. This recipe isn’t outlandish though (if [...]
Emulsifying with Pliny – Allioli, Aïoli
Book 19 of Pliny’s Natural History (Naturalis Historia, ca. 77), an immense 37 volume encyclopedia of everything that everyone had every known, contains the first mention of the garlic/oil emulsion now called allioli in Catalan (aïoli in Provençal). When garlic is “beaten up in oil and vinegar it swells up in foam to a surprising [...]
Psychoactive Fritters? If only.
Continuing a month of fritters with Martino di Como’s Sage Fritters: Simply, sage leaves dredged in a mixture of flour, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, and saffron. Due to a combination of viscosity problems and the unforeseen characteristics of fritter batter/sage leaf adhesion, the results look more like bug fritters than sage fritters. Trying to rectify the [...]
You could definitely put vanil…
You could definitely put vanilla or lemon in them to good effect, but that seems a slippery slope. Maybe chocolate chips though.
Made a big batch of MI Fritter…
Made a big batch of MI Fritters – tried some with almond and a few, under duress, with craisins, but pignoli really work best.
Just saw Moon, it was terrific…
Just saw Moon, it was terrific – well acted, plotted, paced; terrible food though.
Magnificent Imperial Fritters
XXVI. Fritelle da Imperadore magnifici. Se tu voy fare fritelle da Imperadore, toi la chiara de l’ ova e fete de formazo frescho, e battile cum la chiara de l’ ova, e mitige un pocho de farina e pignoli mondi. Toy la padella cum assay onto, falo bolire e fay le fritelle. Quando sono cocte, [...]
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